Greetings and welcome to my latest journal post, featuring the dynamic Naples’ district of Rione Sanità and the people and places behind the rebirth and gentrification of this historically and culturally rich quartiere.

Formally the elegant neighbourhood of Neapolitan nobility, Rione Sanità transformed into a high density working class district, notorious for Camorra criminality.

On a recent photo shoot in this vibrant neighbourhood, I was amazed to discover how much this district has transformed in the past few years.

Ciro Oliva – passionate Neapolitan, pizza maker and owner of Pizzeria Concettina ai Tre Santi.  

Born and raised in the edgy neighbourhood of Sanità, at just 27 years of age and 4th generation of pizza makers, Ciro is leading the way in the gentrification of his notorious quartiere, once considered the district to avoid when visiting Naples. 

‘Caravaggio referred to the play with light and shadows, we are are the lights that are illuminating the shadows of our neighbourhood.’

The perfect marriage of a luxurious living space set amongst a rich museum of art, is the concept of Atelier Inès in the beating heart of Rione Sanità.

Dynamic duo Inès and Vincenzo Oste have combined their talents as jewellery designers and artists to create this innovative space and experience, originally an open-air cinema, artist studio and home of the Oste family.

Atelier Inès is an oasis of tranquility, beauty and design, amongst the buzzing streets of the vibrant neighbourhood.

The vibe in the kitchen of Pasticceria Poppella is upbeat and frenetic and all because of a heavenly little dolce called Fiocco di Neve or Snowflake.

Busy pastry chefs make over 10,000 of these moreish brioche everyday, that have quickly become one of the most popular dolci for the Neapolitan palate.

A secret recipe created by owner and pastry chef, Ciro Poppella, combines the perfect ingredients of a light and fluffy pastry filled with delicate sheep’s ricotta.

Another gastronomic success story in this vibrant quarter.

All photos and text © Susan Wright – Please contact the copyright holder for any digital or print publication requests.

All images available for rights-managed licensing in my Online Image Collection.

Susan Wright is an editorial, travel and lifestyle photographer based in Italy.

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